I would buy the type that has the rubber insert in it as it directs the waste down the hole. Once you stack the wax rings, line up the bolt holes and push the toilet down towards the floor.
The most important part is that you should feel resistance as the wax rings fill the void between the underside of the bowl to the top of the toilet flange in the floor.
Once you feel the resistance, put your full weight on the toilet until it comes to rest on the floor. Then you can tighten the nuts on the bolts. Today I discovered the Oatey extender and plastic seal installed in a toilet I removed from a newly-purchased vintage house. What a poor design. The seal design is highly questionable in my view and leaks are inevitable. After removing I cleaned everything up and put the extender back using a standard wax ring instead of the plastic seal.
I think another commenter did something similar. Hi my name is Danielle and I am new to toilet install. My question is I finished my basement off and putting down 10 mm laminate I am in my bath and not sure about putting the laminate around the toilet or sit it on the laminate. Now my flange is level with the concrete so do I need an extension or not or should I put the toilet directly to the concrete? Thanks for getting back to me. Happy Thanksgiving! If I was in your situation, I would install the laminate around the toilet flange and have the toilet sit on top of the laminate for stability.
If my cast iron flange is about even or even slightly below with the subfloor, is it recommended to build up the flange a little? Or will I be ok with just a jumbo wax ring? I believe plumbers usually install flange lip to rest on the subflooring to provide additional support by screwing down the flange.
We have a TOTO 1 piece toilet purchased 18 years ago, and never had a problem on the old porcelain floor. It must have been slightly lower and used a lot of wax as there was no damage to the subfloor. So glad to have discovered your site and get some idea of how to solve our problem with new porcelain tile floors leaving the toilet flange about an inch too low. There is a rubber seal with wax insert and an optional rubber extension gasket if needed which goes directly on the toilet.
Steel zinc plated bolts and nuts, stainless steel washers, and retainer washers. We will hope this works! We use wax rings on all toilet installs where I work—and have for presumably the 40 years or so the oldest building has been around. Sometimes, if the flange is too low, we double stack them.
This is 1,ish apartments, many of which have at least two toilets. Yes, sometimes the plastic horn can crush—it can also be damaged by using a snake to clear the drain. Awkward movement such as sideways on a toilet can dislodge a seal and perhaps cause a leak. Unfortunately, I found this article after I rebuilt my upstairs toilet and its respective drain system.
The entire project started with a fluorescent light fixture replacement in our downstairs laundry room. I bought a replacement fixture LED and was ready to install. However, when I removed the fluorescent fixture I noticed a small spot of dry mold maybe 4 inches in diameter and what appeared to be an old water stain hidden behind the fixture on the ceiling.
So, I thought about what I should do for 24 hours or so. Essentially debating on if I should hang the new LED light as planned or start pulling apart of the ceiling in the laundry room. Eventually, I decided it was best to cut a hole in the drywall so I could see what was going on inside the ceiling.
Well for one, we had recently completed some foundation work. It would have also kept me up at night not knowing what was going on behind the new light fixture.
Did they also get into the ceiling at some point???? I could not figure this out — maybe or maybe not, it was difficult to determine. I might also add that this specific upstairs bathroom is rarely used. Specifically, I was directly beneath the toilet flange. So, I went upstairs and pulled the flapper valve and let the toilet run for a few minutes. To be honest, I was somewhat surprised by the drips that hit the laundry room floor in front of me every 10 — 20 seconds.
I immediately go upstairs and start disassembling the toilet a Mansfield directly above this leaking flange. When I pulled the toilet from the flange most of the wax ring stayed on the toilet horn.
The wax seemed fairly compressed, somewhat dried out on the edges around the toilet horn, and had what appeared to be mold growing in,on, and around it. When I looked at the toilet flange it appeared to be very rusty.
But I could still see some stainless portions of the metallic flange. Upon further inspection, all 6 screws securing the flange to the wooden sub-floor were completely rusted away. Immediately my suspicions of foundation shifts causing the leak which caused the mold on the laundry room ceiling appear to be validated.
The ring had hardened, the foundation moved, and now we have a gap between the horn and the wax causing the leak, which rusted away the flange bolts and only exacerbated the problem. I watched a few videos on how to install a wax ring on a toilet horn, cleaned the underside of the toilet real well, and proceeded to install the wax ring on the horn with the flat side towards the toilet bowl. I pick the toilet straight up and set it down on the flange with the bolts sticking through the porcelain and I can immediately tell that the wax ring never touches the toilet flange.
I pick the toilet back up, lay it on its side, and confirm that the wax ring never touches the flange. Hrmmmm…… This was completely unexpected. I inspect the toilet horn, the wax ring, and the toilet flange and everything seems to be in order. So I go back to the local home hardware store and purchase the jumbo sized wax ring with the PE core.
I then remove the standard sized wax ring from the toilet horn and install the new jumbo wax ring in its place beveled side towards the toilet bowl and PE core concave down. I lift the toilet straight up again and set it down on the flange and the wax touches. I now have a little internal debate going on, do wax rings generally compress this easily or is the ring barely touching the flange. Regardless, I now immediately know what happened sometime in the past — possibly when the home was built 12 years ago.
A jumbo wax ring was installed, the person installing felt the wax ring make contact and assumed the ring had been compressed when in fact it did not have full contact with the flange.
Now the question is, do I go back to the home hardware store for what will feel like the 1,x to see if they have another potential solution, or do I use the standard wax ring in conjunction with the jumbo ring in some way? I inspect both of the rings and decide that the best option is to attached the standard ring to the bottom side of the jumbo ring to form an oval like cross-section , which maximizes contact area between the rings and should reduce the potential for leaks. My assumption is that when compressed this approach will also cause the two rings to collapse together into the denser middle portion of the now oval shaped wax ring, which should also reduce the potential for leaks by forming a tighter seal on each component the toilet flange and the toilet horn.
We shall see I guess. Again, I wish I had found this article before I made my decisions. That said, I might have made the same choices. I would be interested in hearing what everyone thinks. Hoping you might advise…. The outer ring of the flange is cracked. Silicone caulk between the brass ring and the flange should keep things sealed. Wax between the extender bits should also keep things sealed. Fix the broken flange first to reinforce things and then pop the extender in.
Lay down the Ditra and the tile and top it off with a new flange. To be honest, all options are pretty appetizing. Not fun. Your email address will not be published. The purpose of this article is to review current products that may solve this problem. OPTIONS Of course, the obvious solution was to gut the floor, remove the lead and oakum, de-solder the flange, add a coupling and extra pipe and add a new flange to match the higher.
Some comes with built in gaskets, others either come with separate gaskets or none at all in that instance you need to use mastic of some sort like a caulking or plumbers putty. These rings are designed to be stacked in whatever combination to match the new floor surface level. Some kits also come with a toilet flange extender see option 2. Option 4: Sani Seal — This is a fairly new product on the market.
Sani Seal is a thick, doughnut shaped made of polyurethane foam ring with a built in cone mold on the bottom that is designed to replace the stacked wax rings.
According to the manufacturer, Sani Seal can also be stacked. All of these products require that your old toilet flange be in a good physical condition to ensure positive seal. If you find that the flange has rust rot, cracks, or other physical defects, or any rots on the subflooring, you need to address those issue first. Tom- Thanks for your feedback. I will outline it in detail as to why I chose that particular path in the article.
To install or service the wax ring, you have to remove the toilet. To do this, turn off the water and empty the tank and the bowl and then disconnect the water. Unscrew the bolts holding the toilet to the floor, pull the toilet straight up and set it aside. After pulling the toilet, you'll probably see the old wax ring stuck to the flange. If not, it's stuck to the bottom of the toilet. Either way, you have to scrape all of it off with a putty knife because you need to replace the wax ring whenever you remove the toilet.
You typically install the new wax ring by laying it on the flange and dropping the toilet down onto it. Some plumbers prefer to stick the ring to the bottom of the toilet. These methods are equivalent. If you're convinced that using two wax rings is the way to go, then purchase one wax ring with an attached plastic pipe extension, which should be sized to fit inside the flange opening usually 3 inches in diameter , and purchase a second ring without the extension.
Set the ring with the plastic pipe extension onto the flange and push down to seat it, making sure that the pipe goes all the way into the flange opening.
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