Thank you again for a great product. Stainless Steel Knives are rust resistant to last and last. If you are going to buy a Taping Knife buy the best. Delivery weight: 7 oz. Sharp Tip - Aggressive Tooth Design - 1. Delivery weight: 4 oz. Terms and Conditions. Right of withdrawal. Privacy policy. Contact information. For inside corners, spread compound on both surfaces with a 4-in.
Fold paper drywall tape in the center and press it into the corner [9]. Squeegee away the excess compound with an inside corner knife [10]. Start taping perimeter seams by laying down a thin bed of compound along the seam using a 4-in. Press paper tape into the joint, then wipe away the excess [11]. When the tape is dry, apply a second coat of compound with a 6-in.
Let this coat dry and apply a coat on top of it. When this is dry, sand it lightly with the fine side of a dual-grit sanding sponge [12]. Apply one or two more coats on top of this using the 6-in.
Joints that run parallel to the drywall sheet's long axis should be coated to about 12 in. This makes it harder to hide the end joints, so you have to cover them with a very wide seam that has an extremely shallow taper. Your first pass on joints may look a little rough. On subsequent passes, you can eliminate ridges and other imperfections by reducing the compound on the knife to just a small glob in the blade's center.
There are other tricks. Ferguson, a year drywall veteran, advises buying a fairly stiff drywall knife and putting a slight bend in the blade so that its trailing edge rides slightly above the compound as you pull the knife down the joint.
If you try to do the job with a claw hammer, you may be disappointed. The drywall tool has an angled head to allow nailing close to ceilings and corners. Its check-patterned face prevents slippage, and it indents the panel so the nail holes can be filled properly. Furthermore, its hatchet end can trim framing, shape edges, and lever panels into tight spots if you know how to use it.
Screw fasteners are the best choice, especially for overhead work. Joint compound, or filler, is critical to the success of your project. Professional wallers have a dozen choices, based on use, formulation, and drying time. Everyone else should probably stick with ready-mixed vinyl-based compounds.
Two kinds are usually sold: general-purpose mix for bedding, finishing, and surface texturing; and lightweight compound, an improved blend that is easier to work and sand. Preparation is the key to a top-notch job. Naturally, that may not always be possible. Remove any rugs. The rest is simple demolition. What if the existing drywall is rough in spots, but otherwise straight and sound?
Begin at the ceiling, and sight down across the line of joists to determine if any are high or low. These, too, must be shimmed to level, then secured with two nails at every juncture. Sight-check the wall framing in the same way.
Badly bowed studs can be shimmed, trimmed, or replaced if needed. An easy way to confirm your repairs is to stretch a line between corners. Figuring out the thickness is easy. You may find that the smaller-sized sheets fit your situation better. In fact, the best-looking jobs are usually those in which every opening—doors and windows included—is trimmed after the drywall is up. Understand, too, that lightweight joint compound generally fills better and so will go further than the same amount of standard ready-mix.
There must be a wall or two in your house that needs minor work. Gouges, dents, and small holes and cracks can be treated alike. Give them a rough sandpaper scuffing, then spread a layer of joint compound you can use vinyl filler for small jobs into the depression with the small joint knife. If two coats are needed, let the first dry before laying the second. After the filler is dry, go over the area with a sandpaper block to feather, or blend, the edge to match the surrounding drywall.
Wipe the surface clean, then seal the spot with a latex primer. This last step is important to a successful repair, because the patch is more porous than the area around it and would probably show with a flatter sheen if it were simply repainted.
Popped drywall nails can be driven back into place and reset just below the surface of the wallboard. To keep the board from springing again, drive a new nail a couple of inches above or below the loose one. Especially deep or wide cracks may have to be filled with setting plaster after cleaning them—Durabond 90 is one well-known brand. Spread a generous dollop of compound to the center, and beyond the edges, of the opening. Tear off a strip of joint tape, and cover the filled area, smoothing the paper into the soft compound with your knife.
Holes may need two or three crisscrossed layers of tape, but be sure to coat each layer with compound before you put the next one on top.
Finally, use the joint knife to cover the tape with a thin compound coat. Allow it to dry completely before sanding and priming the area. Large holes, and the all-too-common water-damaged areas, need to be cut out of the wall and replaced altogether. Begin by slicing out the damaged section, using the utility knife for vertical cuts and a keyhole saw for those between joists or studs. Remove any old drywall nails left in the framing if the studs are exposed. Next, measure and cut the new section to fit the opening, and nail its edges to the studs.
Plaster is typically used for restorations on older or historic homes. Get free estimates. How much does drywall installation cost?
How much will your drywall cost? Table of contents [hide] [show]. Get free quotes from drywall contractors in your city. View Pros. Find top-rated drywall companies near you. Before DIY, get free estimates from drywall pros. Project Drywall sheets needed walls only Dryall sheets needed walls and ceiling 5x8 Bathroom 5 — 6 6 — 8 12x12 Bedroom 10 — 12 12 — 18 12x20 Master bedroom 12 — 16 16 — 24 16x20 Living room 12 — 18 20 — 28 20x20 Garage 16 — 24 24 — 36 1, SF Basement 22 — 60 45 — 80 1, SF Whole house — — 2, SF Whole house — — 2, SF Whole house — — 3, SF Whole house — — Drywall Plaster Cheaper Cracks less Faster and easier to install Minimal drying time Better insulating Thicker Fire-retardant More labor-intensive to install and requires multiple coats Longer drying time Stronger and more durable More soundproof.
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Cost to Install Drywall.
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